Exploring the Turtle River by Canoe

Experience easy rapids by canoe and even easier smallmouth bass.

We were able to get the tents up before the downpour, and now our group of four adults and five children is packed together under the protection of a small tarp. Rivulets of water pour over the edge of orange nylon to spill onto the smooth granite rock foundation of our hastily prepared campsite. As miserable as the conditions are, our situation is familiar and comforting. We’ve been paddling with the Simpson family since our girls were tiny, and over the years we’ve all learned to accept the diverse weather that comes with wilderness paddling.

A Timely Campsite

As we slid four canoes into the stained waters of the Turtle River at the Highway 622 bridge, northwest of Atikokan, black clouds were already gathering. As we paddled upstream under a forbidding sky, I watched with pride as our teenage daughters, Islay and Lillian, and the Simpsons -- Jenna, Kiri, and Grace -- took command of their respective vessels. After portaging around several picturesque chutes, we discovered a timely campsite where the river splits around a large rocky island. We hastily pitched tents, rigged a tarp, and fell upon a warm meal with piqued appetites.

canoeing rapids
Islay Smedley and Jenna Simpson navigate one of the many exciting rapids along Northwestern Ontario’s Turtle River. (Photo credit: James Smedley)

By the next afternoon, the sun is warming our backs as we paddle and portage through a profusion of small lakes that will eventually reunite with the Turtle River. After crossing Dibble Lake, we approach a portage around falls and set up camp on the multi-level flat rock site.

Running Logs And Canoes Through History

It’s apparent we are not the first to travel these waterways. A dual sluiceway, engineered with rocks and timbers, gives us a glimpse at the days when the river was used for running logs. But an even deeper conduit into the past is discovered as we paddle past a vertical rock face on Smirch Lake, which holds the faded orange shape of a deer or moose. The ancient Aboriginal pictographs continue with a canoe and paddlers, a turtle, and assorted indistinguishable symbols.

Smirch eventually tapers down and drops into a series of narrows and rapids. The first is particularly daunting, with large standing waves squeezed between a narrow passage. It’s an exciting run for Francine and me in our 18-foot Wenonah and even more exciting for our girls in their shallow 15-foot cedar strip. The moving water also delivers great fishing. Big smallmouth bass nail jigs and plastic, and we harvest half a dozen for tonight’s supper.

Reluctant Homestretch

With the current of the Turtle River behind us and hastened by a tailwind, we return to our first campsite. Where we once shivered under a tarp, we now sunbathe on warm flat rocks and cast topwater poppers from shore for large, aggressive smallmouth. Over the years, we’ve learned that there is a balance between the fair and the foul. And today it isn’t difficult to accept what the great outdoors has to offer.

About James Smedley

Professional photographer and writer James Smedley’s contributions—more than 400 pieces and close to 1,000 images—to U.S. and Canadian books, magazines, and newspapers have earned him over 40 national and international awards. In addition to teaching photography workshops, James is the travel editor at Ontario OUT of DOORS magazine. James has fly-fished for brook trout and arctic grayling in far northern rivers and continues to cast for trout, bass, and steelhead near his home in the northern Ontario town of Wawa where he lives with his wife Francine and daughters Islay and Lillian.

 

Visit James at www.jamessmedleyoutdoors.com

Recommended Articles

Slate Falls Outposts: Arc Lake Outpost

Fly-in Adventure and First-class Service in Northern Ontario

What to Pack for a Fly-in Adventure

These items are sometimes overlooked but come in really handy on a remote fishing trip.

Eagle Lake Fall Muskies

Discover why in the late fall Eagle Lake is a prime location to catch giant muskies in Sunset Country.

Catching Bass Can Be Crystal Clear

Head to this Northwest Ontario resort for an opportunity to catch your personal best smallmouth bass.

Top 8 Places to Ice Fish in Ontario

Ice fishing in Ontario offers diverse catches in serene winter settings.

Why I Use Sinking Fly Lines

What these are and how to use them for fly fishing.

Trophy Lake Trout on Lake Obabika

The pursuit of giants on a recovered fishery.

Mattagami Lake's Perfect Family Fishing Destination

Green Wilderness Lodge offers the rare and perfect blend of relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere and incredible fishing.

Ice, Grit, And the Glory of the Kaby Lake Pike

The weather is a relentless challenge and the fish are the ultimate reward.

A Remote Fishing Adventure with White River Air

A Do It Yourself fly-in fishing trip for brook trout.

Troutfly Outpost is a Multi-Species Factory

This fly-in off-the-grid outpost offers excellent fishing and comfort.

Fishing the Upper Ganaraska

One of Ontario’s most popular fishing destinations for trout and salmon anglers.

Bass Abound

Fishing at Lorimer Lake Resort for Big Bass

The Best Fishing Days

Why Ice Fishing at Sundown Pays Off

The Largemouth Show

Fishing Fall Bass in the St. Marys River

Ideal Christmas Gifts For The Northern Ontario Ice Angler

Inexpensive, bullet-proof suggestions for the ice angler on your Christmas list.

Saugeen River Fishing

Great Fly Fishing Guide Trips with Grindstone Angling

The Joy of Fishing

Unforgettable Walleye Fishing on the Bay of Quinte

Real Fishing at Mattawa River Resort

Mattawa River Resort offers an easy to get to location and unlimited fishing opportunities

Ice Fishing Trout

A Secret to Use to Increase Your Odds