Exploring the Turtle River by Canoe

Experience easy rapids by canoe and even easier smallmouth bass.

We were able to get the tents up before the downpour, and now our group of four adults and five children is packed together under the protection of a small tarp. Rivulets of water pour over the edge of orange nylon to spill onto the smooth granite rock foundation of our hastily prepared campsite. As miserable as the conditions are, our situation is familiar and comforting. We’ve been paddling with the Simpson family since our girls were tiny, and over the years we’ve all learned to accept the diverse weather that comes with wilderness paddling.

A Timely Campsite

As we slid four canoes into the stained waters of the Turtle River at the Highway 622 bridge, northwest of Atikokan, black clouds were already gathering. As we paddled upstream under a forbidding sky, I watched with pride as our teenage daughters, Islay and Lillian, and the Simpsons -- Jenna, Kiri, and Grace -- took command of their respective vessels. After portaging around several picturesque chutes, we discovered a timely campsite where the river splits around a large rocky island. We hastily pitched tents, rigged a tarp, and fell upon a warm meal with piqued appetites.

canoeing rapids
Islay Smedley and Jenna Simpson navigate one of the many exciting rapids along Northwestern Ontario’s Turtle River. (Photo credit: James Smedley)

By the next afternoon, the sun is warming our backs as we paddle and portage through a profusion of small lakes that will eventually reunite with the Turtle River. After crossing Dibble Lake, we approach a portage around falls and set up camp on the multi-level flat rock site.

Running Logs And Canoes Through History

It’s apparent we are not the first to travel these waterways. A dual sluiceway, engineered with rocks and timbers, gives us a glimpse at the days when the river was used for running logs. But an even deeper conduit into the past is discovered as we paddle past a vertical rock face on Smirch Lake, which holds the faded orange shape of a deer or moose. The ancient Aboriginal pictographs continue with a canoe and paddlers, a turtle, and assorted indistinguishable symbols.

Smirch eventually tapers down and drops into a series of narrows and rapids. The first is particularly daunting, with large standing waves squeezed between a narrow passage. It’s an exciting run for Francine and me in our 18-foot Wenonah and even more exciting for our girls in their shallow 15-foot cedar strip. The moving water also delivers great fishing. Big smallmouth bass nail jigs and plastic, and we harvest half a dozen for tonight’s supper.

Reluctant Homestretch

With the current of the Turtle River behind us and hastened by a tailwind, we return to our first campsite. Where we once shivered under a tarp, we now sunbathe on warm flat rocks and cast topwater poppers from shore for large, aggressive smallmouth. Over the years, we’ve learned that there is a balance between the fair and the foul. And today it isn’t difficult to accept what the great outdoors has to offer.

About James Smedley

Professional photographer and writer James Smedley’s contributions—more than 400 pieces and close to 1,000 images—to U.S. and Canadian books, magazines, and newspapers have earned him over 40 national and international awards. In addition to teaching photography workshops, James is the travel editor at Ontario OUT of DOORS magazine. James has fly-fished for brook trout and arctic grayling in far northern rivers and continues to cast for trout, bass, and steelhead near his home in the northern Ontario town of Wawa where he lives with his wife Francine and daughters Islay and Lillian.

 

Visit James at www.jamessmedleyoutdoors.com

Recommended Articles

The Joy of Fishing

Unforgettable Walleye Fishing on the Bay of Quinte

Destroying Fall Muskie Myths

Muskie anglers leave a lot of late fall locations unscathed

20 Years With Fish TV!

Fish TV discusses their favourite Ontario catches

Reaching Deep For Walleye

Fishing for big Walleye in Ontario's Bay of Quinte.

In Search of Brookies

Fly Fishing at Esnagami Wilderness Lodge

Creatures on the Fly: On the Hunt for Brook Trout

Angling in Algoma Country means a chance to reel in some of the best brook trout in the world.

Beaded Lures

Find out why these chintzy plastic beads are the perfect lure.

Off-Grid Ontario Fishing Adventures

Escape to one of these 4 remote Ontario outposts this summer

Fly Fishing The Nipigon River: What To Bring

These tips will make your trip to these fabled Ontario waters more enjoyable.

Heat Wave? Cold Front? No Problem.

Learn how weather patterns can affect fishing techniques and strategies.

River Run Walleye

The Walleye Fishing Adventures Abound in Ontario's Algoma Country

Eagle Lake Lodge: A Muskie Angler's Paradise

Fish'n Canada's Pete Bowman fishes for Muskie and Smallmouth Bass in Ontario's Sunset Country.

French River Fever

This waterway is rich in lunge lore, having produced muskies in excess of 60 pounds.

Structure or Cover?

Learn the Difference to Catch More Fish

Portage Paradise Walleye

Remote lake fishing adventures to pristine lakes.

Hearst Air Service

Remote trophy fishing for both walleye and pike.

Top Flies for Northern Pike

Try These Go-to Flies and Tips on Your Next Trip

Miles Bay Camp

Secluded fishing attracts anglers to Miles Bay on Lake of the Woods

Cat Island Lodge

Fly-in fishing for walleye and lake trout

Steelhead and Salmon of Northern Ontario

Ontario's north is home to tributaries of Lake Superior and Lake Huron—and many species of salmon and steelhead