10 Stunning Old Growth Forest Hikes in Ontario

Take a hike in Ontario’s primeval forests.

There’s something magical about walking in a primeval forest. The tall trees have a way of lifting your spirit and supercharging your sense of wonder, making you feel like you’ve stepped back in time in a lost world. And in a sense, you have: a mere fraction of Ontario’s original forests remain standing today due to over a century of logging, mining and urban development. The few pockets that remain are ours to protect and cherish.

Patches of old growth forest remain all across Ontario. Southern regions feature rare oases of leafy Carolinian forest, marked by distinctive broadleaf trees not found anywhere else in the province. Maple and pine reign supreme in central Ontario, with majestic white pine soaring to heights of 30 m or more. Due to natural cycles of wildfire, Northern Ontario’s boreal forest features shorter-lived species, though you can still find towering white spruces growing like spires in wetter areas.

As someone who cares deeply about conservation, I feel fortunate each time I visit stands of Ontario old growth forest. These remnant trees remind us of ecological conditions that once dominated the landscape — and remain integral to supporting Ontario’s biological diversity. In visiting the nine special places listed in this story, nature lovers, wilderness paddlers, adventurous families and photographers will feel uplifted and rooted by Ontario’s ancient forests. 

What is an Old Growth Forest? 

“Old growth” is defined by a community of trees developing over a long period of time without significant disturbance, such as wildfire or logging. These areas are sometimes described as “primary forest,” because they have never been logged and renewed. Old growth characteristics manifest in different ways and at different ages depending on the species of tree; but generally these forests exhibit rich, layered habitat that transitions seamlessly from the soil to the treetops, along with dead-standing trees and decaying wood. Old growth forests feature incredible species richness, especially for insects, songbirds and mammals, such as pine marten. Some Ontario species at risk, such as boreal caribou and Canada warbler, are only found in mature, old growth forests.

Ancient forests are worth preserving for their unique biological diversity, as well as their natural ecological characteristics. For example, the thick, insulative bark of Central Ontario’s remnant white- and red pine forests make them especially tolerant of low-intensity wildfires, which renews the forest ecosystem yet allows the giant trees to remain, while reducing the likelihood of catastrophic wildfires.

Check out Michael Henry and Peter Quimby’s book, Ontario’s Old Growth Forests for a detailed profile of ancient forests and where to find Ontario’s oldest trees. You can also learn more at the authors’ Ancient Forest Exploration & Research website.

Best Old Growth Hikes in Ontario

Enjoy a bird’s eye view of the Temagami landscape from the Temagami Tower.  Credit: Destination Ontario
Enjoy a bird’s eye view of the Temagami landscape from the Temagami Tower. Credit: Destination Ontario

Tall Temagami Pines

Northeastern Ontario’s Temagami region is ground-zero for old growth forest activism and awareness in Ontario. Blockades in the region during the late 1980s remain the province’s largest act of civil disobedience, and included the arrest of then-future premier Bob Rae. The protests helped save remnant forests of 300-year-old white- and red pine in the heart of some of Canada’s finest canoe country, and resulted in expansions to some Temagami area provincial parks.

You’ll need to venture across water to access most Temagami old growth hiking trails. It’s a half-day journey by canoe to reach the easy trails on Blueberry Lake, east of the town of Temagami and Highway 11. Start at the public boat launch on Cassels Lake and paddle north, then portage 450 m to Blueberry Lake. There are two backcountry campsites on the lake and three trails to experience the woods, including the 3-km Old Growth Trail, featuring towering white pine trees whose lives have spanned centuries. The trail is unique because it also reveals the rejuvenating effects of localized wildfires, as well as many examples of how old growth supports biodiversity with a variety of tree species. Several other trails radiate from the lake, offering ridge-top vistas and glimpses of low-lying habitat dominated by mature eastern white cedar.

From the Lake Temagami Road access point, paddle (or boat) across the channel to the Temagami Island trails. There’s a myriad of options for hikes ranging from 30 minutes to three hours, with maps posted along the way. If you don’t have access to a canoe, kayak or powerboat — or you’re short on time — visit the town of Temagami’s White Bear Forest, which includes a historic fire tower and several hiking options, such as the 2.7-km White Bear trail.

If you go: Places to stay in the Temagami area range from backcountry canoe camping to the drive-in campground at Finlayson Point Provincial Park, as well as waterfront cabin rentals and lodges on Lake Temagami and other lakes. For the latter, Ojibway Family Lodge and Great Spirit Lodge offer convenient access to old growth-viewing trails on Lake Temagami. Smoothwater Outfitters and Lodge is a favourite for canoe trippers, with accommodations, meals, canoe outfitting and rentals, vehicle shuttles and more — as well as access to a network of forest hiking trails from the lodge. Temagami Outfitting Company offers route planning advice, outfitting including canoe and kayak rentals, guided trips, vehicle shuttles and more.

Wilderness Trails in Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater Provincial Park

It’s hard to find better wilderness old growth trails in Canada than those in Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater Provincial Park. Located in the Temagami region, this wilderness area is renowned amongst canoe trippers. Maple Mountain is a popular destination with an incredible trail to a bare-rock summit, topped with a historic fire tower. Getting there involves at least two days of paddling from the nearest access point at Mowat Landing, at the end of Highway 558, west of Temiskaming Shores, on expansive Lady Evelyn Lake. No portages make this route suitable for canoeists and sea kayakers alike. You can also charter a floatplane into the Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater interior with Temagami’s Lakeland Airways.

The 3-km (one-way) trail to Maple Mountain starts on the low-lying shores of Tupper Lake and gradually gains elevation, with some remarkably girthy white pines along the way. Hiking is relatively easy until you reach the crux — a difficult “ropes and ladders” section up a sheer rock cliffs to reach the summit. The view from the top is spectacular, with mature forest interspersed with gem-like lakes, stretching as far as the eye can see.

If you go: Get trip planning advice, rentals, outfitting and vehicle shuttles from Temagami Outfitting Company or Smoothwater Outfitters & Lodge. For an immersive and comfortable experience, book a stay at Cabin Falls on the Lady Evelyn River. This wilderness ecolodge is only accessible by canoe, with several options available depending on your skills and available time. Owners Hap and Andrea Wilson are icons of wilderness preservation in the Temagami region. Besides offering unique accommodations next to the scenic cascades of a wild river, they offer guided paddling and hiking day trips to remarkable eastern white cedar, white- and red pine forests in the area.

Keep an eye out for centuries-old red pine trees while pedaling in the Hiawatha Highlands.  Credit: Destination Ontario
Look for centuries-old red pine trees while pedalling in the Hiawatha Highlands. Credit: Destination Ontario

Primeval Forests of Algoma

Many of the ancient trees we cherish today were left standing by early loggers because of rugged terrain, which made them too difficult or dangerous to harvest. The easily accessible trails of the Hiawatha Highlands, just 10 minutes north of Sault Ste. Marie, provide some excellent examples. This area supports some of Ontario’s finest cross-country skiing and fat-biking in the winter. Come spring, summer and fall, hikers can traipse along many trails, including the 12-km Red Pine network.

Though it’s named after a more recent red pine plantation, soaring white pine are the shining stars of the Red Pine trails. Some of the tallest, centuries-old white pines take root on steep sandy ridges, punctuating unique topography just south of Sault Ste. Marie’s Fifth Line road. Meanwhile, Hiawatha’s Kinsmen Park, located off of Landslide Road, features waterfalls on the Crystal Creek, which tumbles beneath the canopy of eastern hemlock and white pine trees, with several easy, family-friendly hiking options on the Voyageur Trail.

If you go: Walk Among the Trees, a Sault Ste. Marie-based Indigenous-owned nature-based tour operator, offers immersive walking tours in the Hiawatha Highlands, featuring Traditional Ecological Knowledge and Anishinaabemowin language. Mountain bikers can also glimpse tall trees while riding the challenging terrain of one of Ontario’s most exciting mountain bike destinations. The Water Tower Inn is conveniently located with easy access to great dining, minutes from the trails, in Sault Ste. Marie. 

Enjoy a feeling of mystery in Ontario’s oldest forests.  Credit: Destination Ontario
The iconic pine silhouette is a common sight in the Algonquin interior. Credit: Destination Ontario

Algonquin’s Majestic Pines

Beyond its renowned canoe routes, Algonquin Provincial Park shelters significant old-growth forests. The Big Pines Trail, located at kilometer 40.3 of Highway 60, is a 2.9-kilometer loop that winds through stands of majestic white pines, some over 200 years old.

If you go: For a cozy waterfront retreat within the park, stay at Killarney Lodge or the Blue Moon Rereat, both which offer private cabins and easy access to Algonquin’s trails. Then delve deeper into Algonquin's history at the Algonquin Logging Museum.​

The spectacular Sleeping Giant area is home to 330-year-old black spruce trees.  Credit: Destination Ontario
The spectacular Sleeping Giant area is home to 330-year-old black spruce trees. Credit: Destination Ontario

Sleeping Giant Spruce and Cedar

Northwestern Ontario’s Sleeping Giant Provincial Park is rightfully known for its namesake larger-than-life geological formations. But tucked between the 300-m cliffs of the Sleeping Giant and Lake Superior’s shores exist small pockets of ancient woods, often sheltered in wetland areas. This inconspicuous habitat harbours one of Ontario’s oldest black spruce trees, aged by researchers at roughly 330 years old. This boreal forest species typically succumbs to cyclical wildfires in drier habitat. Meanwhile, Sleeping Giant is also home to an eastern white cedar that’s nearly 350 years old and growing in a swamp.

There are many hiking options in Sleeping Giant Provincial Park. Take your time on the challenging, 16.2-km Head Trail to look for ancient cedars and black spruce in wetland areas. This trail starts at the South Kabeyun trailhead and eventually ascends to one of Ontario’s best viewpoints.

If you go: Sleeping Giant’s Marie Louise Lake campground serves as an excellent base for exploring the area. Or if you prefer more comfort and privacy, check out the nearby Beyond the Giant Nature Retreat

Big Birches in Lake Superior Provincial Park

White birch trees are emblematic of the boreal forest and have played a key role in Canada’s history. Indigenous people used the tree’s durable, waterproof bark for canoes and other essential items. Later, the voyageurs relied on massive birchbark canoes measuring up to 12 m long to transport furs and trade goods across the country. However, old growth birch is a rarity since it is generally a shorter-lived species, except in certain conditions.

The cool, moist microclimate of Lake Superior produces exceptional birch specimens, including a variation of large, long-lived white birch. There’s no better place to see these giants than on the Orphan Lake Trail in Lake Superior Provincial Park. This moderately difficult, 8-km trail starts in a forest dominated by yellow birch, recognizable for their massive trunks with flaky, gold-coloured bark that’s distinctly different from the papery skin of white birch. You’ll see more of the latter species as you approach Lake Superior, where the trail traces the cascades of the Baldhead River.

If you go: Lake Superior Provincial Park marks the transition from the maples and pines of the Great Lakes-St. Lawrence forest and the spruce and birch of the boreal forest. The park’s Agawa Bay campground features an abundance of tall red pine, while the Rabbit Blanket Lake campground features more northern species, especially in north-facing areas and along the lakeshore. Both offer excellent base camps to explore the park’s hiking trails and canoe routes.

Discover 150-year-old sugar maples in the Beaver Valley area of southern Ontario.  Credit: Alamy
Discover 150-year-old sugar maples in the Beaver Valley area of southern Ontario. Credit: Alamy

Majestic Maples on the Bruce Trail in Beaver Valley

Michael Henry of Ancient Forest Exploration & Research documents dozens of southern Ontario old growth hikes in his book, Old Growth Forest Walks. To see old growth sugar maples, a 2- to 3-hour trek on the Bruce Trail in the Beaver Valley features trees up to 150 years old, growing alongside equally ancient hemlocks. Access the trail from the town of Flesherton, in Grey County

If you go: Grey County makes a fantastic weekend getaway from Toronto. No forest-inspired trip is complete without a meal at the aptly named Flying Chestnut Restaurant in Flesherton.

The Bruce Peninsula is home to Ontario's oldest known tree—1,337 years old!  Credit: Alamy
The Bruce Peninsula is home to Ontario's oldest known tree—1,337 years old! Credit: Alamy

Ancient Cedars of the Escarpment

The Bruce Peninsula is home to Ontario’s oldest trees — though you’d hardly know it for their diminutive size. Hardy and wizened eastern white cedar cling to the limestone cliffs of the Niagara Escarpment, with the oldest living specimen having germinated near the town of Lion’s Head in the year 688 — making it an astounding 1,337 years old.

The 16.6-km Lion’s Head Loop reveals why the Bruce Peninsula is recognized as having the best hiking on the Bruce Trail. This challenging trail in Lion’s Head Provincial Park takes you to lofty cliff tops where you can gaze across Georgian Bay and take a closer look at incredibly old cedars. The park’s undisturbed forests are also home to rare plants, including many species of spring-blooming orchids.

If you go: Bruce Peninsula National Park offers great camping and plenty of hiking trails, taking in the forests, unique geology and Lake Huron coastline of the Niagara Escarpment at the tip of the Bruce Peninsula.

Peterborough’s Burnham Woods

Mark S. Burnham Provincial Park offers an encounter with one of Ontario’s most diverse forests, east of Peterborough on Highway 7, on an easy 1.5-km trail. Along with mature maple, beech and elm trees, the park is home to Ontario’s oldest eastern hemlock tree, with one recently deceased specimen living to the age of 460 years. Hemlock trees impart a unique feeling on the surrounding woods and ecosystem: their dark bark and dense needles create a cool, shady microclimate, which is especially important for supporting cold-water conditions in nearby streams.

If you go: Make it a weekend and stay at the luxurious Elmhirst Resort on Rice Lake, with waterfront cabins and FeastON certified dining. Peterborough is known as the birthplace of the modern canoe, and the brand new Canadian Canoe Museum is a fantastic destination to learn more about the history of Canada’s iconic watercraft.

The Wolf Lake area is the world's largest contiguous ancient red pine forest. Credit: Alamy
The Wolf Lake area has the world's largest contiguous ancient red pine forest. Credit: Alamy

Sudbury’s Wolf Lake

Located within Greater Sudbury’s sprawling city limits, the Wolf Lake area contains the world’s largest old growth red pine forest. It takes novice to intermediate canoe trippers about a day of travel on Matagamasi and Silvester lakes to reach the aquamarine waters of Wolf Lake. The lake’s steep shorelines are pin-pricked with mature red pine, some of which have been standing for over 300 years. These hardy trees have survived natural wildfires and continue to provide habitat for songbirds, black bears and more. You get a glimpse of this majestic forest while you trek over two portage trails on the paddle in. Most of the lake’s first-come, first-served backcountry campsites feature canopies of tall pines and easy walking in open woods.

If you go: Non-paddlers can get a glimpse of northeastern Ontario’s original forests with a stay at Sportsman Lodge on Kukagami Lake. The lodge also offers secure parking and vehicle shuttles for canoeists headed to Wolf Lake, and serves as a starting point for longer canoe trips in the area. 

Enjoy a feeling of mystery in Ontario’s oldest forests.  Credit: Destination Ontario
Enjoy a feeling of mystery in Ontario’s oldest forests. Credit: Destination Ontario

FAQ About Old Growth Forests in Ontario

Where are the best old growth forests in Ontario?

It’s a toss up between Algonquin Provincial Park and northeastern Ontario’s Temagami region for Ontario’s best old growth forest. Both areas feature expansive stands of ancient pine forests, accessible by hiking trails and canoe routes. 

What’s the oldest tree in Ontario?

Ontario’s oldest known tree is a hardy 1,337-year-old eastern white cedar, growing on the limestone cliffs of the Niagara Escarpment near the community of Lion’s Head.

Are there any easy old growth hikes for beginners?

Easy old growth hikes for beginners include Temagami’s White Bear Forest trails, Sault Ste. Marie’s Hiawatha Highlands, Peterborough’s Mark S. Burnham Provincial Park, and the Big Pines trail in Algonquin Provincial Park.

About Conor Mihell

Conor Mihell is an award-winning environmental and adventure travel writer based in Sault Ste. Marie. Read his work in the Globe and Mail, Explore, Cottage Life, Canoe & Kayak, ON Nature, and other magazines and newspapers. He's been a sea kayak guide on Lake Superior for close to 20 years, and has paddled from Sault Ste. Marie to Thunder Bay. 

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