I've always loved off-road motorcycle trips. In winter, however, I'm primarily a trail snowmobiler. In early January, just before the snowmobile season really got underway, I decided to leave the beaten track behind and head north—toward James Bay in Northern Ontario.
For snowmobilers looking to go beyond the groomed federated trails and take on a different kind of challenge, this Northern Ontario adventure is truly exceptional.
In this vast territory that my guide knows like the back of her hand, the snow conditions were absolutely wild. We're talking about a landscape with no landmarks, no groomed trails, and no traffic.
When you ride here, you're completely immersed in nature. The silence is absolute. There's no one around—just you, the machine, and the horizon.
I never go alone. I love adventure, but I want it to be safe. Even if we’re capable of handling mechanical issues ourselves, in terrain like this, going with an experienced guide isn’t optional— it’s essential.
I set out with Mylène Coulombe-Gratton, founder of Follow Her North. It’s immediately obvious that she grew up in this environment. She knows the territory, snowmobiles, and machines inside out.
Originally from Hearst, an ideal staging town, she has that colourful Franco-Ontarian accent that adds even more character to the experience. As someone from Quebec’s Eastern Townships, I recognized many familiar expressions.
We departed from Cochrane, heading toward Otter Rapids. The first few kilometres follow hydroelectric transmission lines—fairly flat terrain—before plunging into what every snowmobiler dreams about: deep powder as far as the eye can see.
In some places, there was easily two metres of snow. This is the kind of terrain that keeps you focused while delivering pure riding pleasure.
Our first night was spent at Camp Onakawana. After 60 kilometres riding beneath Hydro-Ontario power lines, the camp feels like a step back in time—if not for the fully equipped kitchen and generator.
The site is magnificent, secluded, and incredibly peaceful.
We shared an excellent meal and spent time chatting with the owners, William and Pam. Former bush pilots, the couple settled here between the river and the railway line. A narrow single-track trail connects the camp to the railway in about ten minutes by snowmobile, and the Abitibi River bridge is about twenty minutes away.
The next day, after a few hours of playing in the deep snow with our machines, we joked that we were like the Daltons—stopping a train in the middle of the forest.
Okay, that’s a bit of an exaggeration. But it’s still impressive to see the steel behemoth of the Ontario Northland train stop in the middle of nowhere so we can load our snowmobiles on board.
Our guide had warned Ontario Northland ahead of time about our boarding point. When the train stopped, two employees pulled ramps out of an empty railcar and, within minutes, the snowmobiles were loaded.
Absolutely thrilling.
The adventure then brought us to Moosonee, on the coast of James Bay.
Everywhere we went, people greeted us with smiles and curiosity. It had been a long time since I had visited an Indigenous community, and the welcome was warm and genuine.
When you travel this far north, curiosity is natural. People asked where we came from, what we were doing there, and where we were headed next. At the hotel, in the village, and on the train, the conversations felt authentic and human.
We also had a great night’s sleep at the Super 8 in Moosonee.
To return south, we boarded the Polar Bear Express, the train that connects Moosonee and Cochrane.
It turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip.
On the train, I finally had time to relax—a short nap, conversations with passengers (many of whom live along the James Bay coast), and a coffee in the dining car.
It was the perfect way to end the adventure: travelling from the heart of the boreal forest back to Cochrane.
In a territory this vast and remote, there’s no one coming to rescue you if something goes wrong. That’s why travelling with a knowledgeable guide is essential.
Mylène Coulombe-Gratton of Follow Her North knows the terrain, understands how to handle machines in deep snow, and has the energy to step in when things get physically demanding.
Despite her young age, her experience is remarkable. It’s clear she grew up in this environment.
For a snowmobiler used to groomed federated trails, venturing off-trail into the wide open snowfields of Northern Ontario is a defining experience.
I’m a motorcycle tour guide myself—and honestly, I tip my hat.
This snowmobile adventure to James Bay is simply incomparable.
