A Family Canoe Trip on the Moose River to James Bay, Ontario

I’ve always wanted to take my family to the north. There’s something about it: the wilderness, the vast expanse of nothing, the people. So when the idea of paddling the Moose River all the way to James Bay came up, I jumped on it. And I dragged my son and wife along too. 

Riding the Polar Bear Express to the Edge of the Wilderness

Our journey began in Cochrane, Ontario, where we boarded the historic Polar Bear Express. Excitement buzzed through our group as we settled into our seats, watching the dense Boreal forest blur past the train windows. We were on a trip with MHO Adventures. There were 14 of us together, including our two guides. We were all strangers, but we were excited to get to know one another. 

After a short ride north, we arrived at Moose River Crossing, a remote stop in the middle of the wilderness. No roads, no buildings—just the steel bridge spanning the river and the sound of rushing water below. It was the perfect place to begin our adventure.

We unloaded our gear and watched as the train pulled away. There’s nothing quite like having a train leave you in the middle of the wilderness. It’s a truly Canadian experience.

Launching Onto the Moose River

We shouldered our packs and made the short portage to the river’s edge. After a quick safety meeting, we pushed off into the serene waters of the Moose River. The first few paddle strokes felt like shedding the weight of everyday life—no emails, no traffic, no screens—just the rhythm of the river and the quiet companionship of family and friends.

Four Days of Canoeing, Camping, and Discovery in Northern Ontario

Over the next four days, we explored gypsum caves, searched for fossils and wandered along wild shorelines. We camped on gravel bars, cooked meals over an open fire and shared stories under the vast northern sky. Paddling through gentle swifts kept us engaged, while stretches of calm water allowed us to truly absorb the wilderness around us. With every bend in the river, our group—once strangers—became a family of adventurers, bonded by shared experiences and the simplicity of life on the river.

Stories, Skills, and Hospitality Along the Moose River

We stopped at Wayne’s place, near the confluence of the Abitibi and Moose Rivers. Wayne, a local from Moosonee, is a close friend of MHO Adventures. He’s also the mayor of Moosonee, and his cabin in the wilderness was a great place to camp out. He’s a walking encyclopedia of the region’s history and culture. We listened to his stories of the land, the river and the people who have called this place home for generations. He guided us on a short hike around his cabin, revealing all the natural medicines and foods that were everywhere around us. Then he showed us how to fillet a fish; his skills are absolutely top-notch. His patience with the children’s curiosity made for a beautiful experience.

Sleeping Under the Northern Lights

The next night, as we settled into our tents, something magical happened. The northern lights appeared. Swirling blues, greens, and purples stretched across the sky, undulating like waves in an unseen current. We stood in awe, speechless. 

Moosonee, Moose Factory, and the Edge of James Bay

Our adventure ended in Moosonee, a town rich in Indigenous culture and history. We camped at Tidewater Provincial Park in the middle of Moose River. We visited Moose Factory, where the Moose Cree people welcomed us with moose meat stew. Then we took a boat ride to Ship Sands Island, standing at the edge of James Bay, feeling the pull of the Arctic tides. We went for a quick dip and marvelled at the experience and the beauty of this vast wilderness.

On our final day, we paddled across the river to Moosonee, where we portaged through town, loaded our gear onto the Polar Bear Express and headed back to Cochrane. Our spirits were content, our family bonds restored, and our memories forever imprinted with the magic of the Moose River. I love the north. And now, so does my family.

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