Exploring Northern Ontario’s Superior Pie Path

With the leaves starting to fall from the trees and Canada geese practicing formations for their trip down South, I decided to embark on a journey of my own—along the Superior Pie Path in Superior Country. There’s never a bad time for pie, but the bounty of the autumn harvest of fruits and berries makes it almost impossible to resist the lure of the Path.

 

 

 

 

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This will be a 299 km adventure that takes me through the communities of Thunder Bay, Silver Islet, Nipigon and Terrace Bay. Superior Country recommends setting aside two days for this tasty trip, and they also advise that you take a cooler to stow some slices for later.  

Pie.ology

My journey starts in Thunder Bay at the city’s well-loved Thunder Bay Country Market, upstairs at the Pie.ology booth where I meet vendors Malcolm and Amanda Hope. They share that they create their tasty little hand pies with lots of local ingredients including honey, maple syrup, meats, fruits, vegetables, cheese and hot sauce. Given all this bounty, theirs is a menu that changes frequently but there’s always something to savour. To kick off my adventure, I choose the breakfast poutine pie, featuring Tarrymore Farms' eggs, bacon from Bogdala’s Smoked Meats, Thunder Oak cheese curds, hollandaise sauce, diced red peppers, green onions and home fries.

The Little Pie Shop

Before I leave the market, I check out The Little Pie Shop, on the main floor to visit with vendor Tami and, yes, pick up another pie. Tami was raised in a Ukrainian household where she began cooking at the age of five. After opening a restaurant called Baba Yaga, Tami launched The Little Pie Shop in the market over a decade ago. The Little Pie Shop pies are a taste sensation you don’t want to miss! Whether it’s a luxurious coconut or banana cream pie or one of Tami’s own creations like Blackberry Peach, you can’t possibly go wrong.

It’s tempting to linger at the market as there is always an amazing range of quality farm-fresh and local foods, unique arts and crafts and friendly vendors to talk with. It’s such a welcoming gathering place and business incubator that supports local farmers, producers, artists, and the local economy while serving the community and visitors. But the Pie Path is calling so, after picking up a cup of coffee for the road at the Hoito Finlandia Co-operative, I get going.

Silver Islet General Store

My next pie place will be Silver Islet General Store in the charming village of Silver Islet, but there will be a couple must-see stops along the way.

The first is the Terry Fox Monument just east of Thunder Bay. This is a site that I rarely miss when in the area as it offers a breathtaking view of Lake Superior, the majestic Sleeping Giant, and the city of Thunder Bay. More importantly, it features a bronze statue of Terry Fox, a Canadian hero who ran across the country for cancer research. In 1977, Fox lost his leg to bone cancer at the age of 18. He started his Marathon of Hope run in 1980 in St. John’s, Newfoundland and he ran about 42 kms. (26 miles) every day until reaching just outside Thunder Bay, after 143 days where he had to stop his run, the cancer having returned. It’s a sad yet still inspiring story as his legacy lives on with an annual Terry Fox Run held in over 60 countries that has raised over $750 million for cancer research.

Next stop is Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, home to over 100 km of trails—the largest trail system of all Ontario parks. The park is also known for its dramatic landscapes and natural beauty. It was voted CBC’s # 1 Wonder of Canada in its Seven Wonders of Canada competition in 2007.

To burn off the calories from the hand pies and the sitting, I first head to the Joe Creek Nature Trail, at 1.4 km round trip, a quick little trail but one that yields some amazing views including a waterfall, enormous flat slabs of rock with vein-like channels, and a beaver dam. Then I duck into the park’s Visitor Centre for a tour the exhibits that explore the natural and cultural history of the Sibley Peninsula, including a model of the Silver Islet Mine, which highlights the area’s mining history. Last stop is the dock near the Visitor Centre for one of the most stunning views of the Sleeping Giant you can experience.

It's getting close to lunch time, so I make my way to Silver Islet to visit with hosts Jeff and Sandy Korkola, owners of the store, and sample some of Sandy’s amazing dishes. The store has a tearoom, where guests can enjoy pizzas, soups, sandwiches, and delicious baked goods. It’s famous for its cinnamon rolls and pies prepared with seasonal, locally sourced ingredients and Sandy’s secret crust. They also offer mini versions called “cutie pies,” enough for two but a special treat for one. But we cannot live by pie alone, so I choose the daily soup and a biscuit then try their Superior Pie Path feature, wildberry pie, which is wildly delicious.

Heading east to Nipigon, I take in the spectacular views of the lake and the Boreal forests and marvel at the red rock cuestas just outside the town of Red Rock. My first visit is to the Nipigon Bridgeview Lookout Tower where I climb 65 steps and am rewarded with a 360-degree panorama of Lake Helen, the Nipigon River Bridge, the Marina, and beyond. Back down on the ground, I take myself on a 2.6-km self-guided walking tour that includes some historical buildings as well as the attractive waterfront with boardwalk. Nipigon also has some great shops that sell local souvenirs and crafts.  What’s more, it’s home to the famous Ducky’s Diner and I’ll be visiting there tomorrow. For now, it’s on to Terrace Bay.

There are lots of options to get your heart pumping in this scenic town on Lake Superior including walking to the 100-foot Aguasabon Falls and continuing along the Casque Isles Trail, climbing to the top of the Terrace Bay Lighthouse, a 50-foot replica of the Slate Island Lighthouse, with amazing views and strolling along the beautiful Terrace Bay beach. I opt for all three and then it’s time for dinner.

Drifter's Restaurant

Drifter's is a family-owned Italian restaurant in Terrace Bay with an extensive menu including specialty burgers, pasta, steak and lobster. They offer two seasonal varieties of pie every day. Their Superior Pie Path feature is a Billy Miner pie, a knockoff of the famous dessert served at Keg restaurants across Canada. It’s made up of an Oreo cookie crust, mocha ice cream filling, and topped with sliced almonds and caramel and chocolate sauces.

Drifter’s also has a really nice motel where you can enjoy a restful night breathing in all that refreshing Lake Superior air.

Ducky's Diner

On my return trip, I stop at Ducky’s Diner to see what’s cooking for lunch. Dubbed “Ducky” by his mom since childhood, owner/chef Cory Ralke says that pies are both a process and a labour of love for him and that he’s been fascinated with pie making since he saw the movie Snow White and saw her making pies with the birds. Ducky’s contribution to the Superior Pie Path is Ducky's Pie Sundaes, deconstructed pies à la mode with flavours like wild blueberry, strawberry rhubarb, strawberry, and apple. If you’re looking to balance all that luscious sweetness with something savoury to start, Ducky’s specially brined chicken is the star of some beautiful sandwiches.

Heading home, I reflect on my journey and decide that the Superior Country Pie Path is the perfect combination of adventure and indulgence. Maybe it’s time to start planning your trip along the path. 

Superior Pie Path

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