Beyond Cottage Country: Why Northern Ontario Keeps Drawing Me Back

There is something about the allure of the north. I’m not talking about cottage-country north. I ride to cottage country and back home on a Saturday. Algonquin Park? Keep riding, you’re not there yet. I’m talking about the real north. Although its eastern border seems to be defined differently depending on who’s defining it, if you’ve crossed the French River or hit North Bay or Sudbury, you’ve gotten there—just. Only 1,000 more kilometres to Thunder Bay and 1,525 kilometres to reach the Manitoba border.

Wildlife Encounters in Northern Ontario: From Loons to Pelicans and Beyond

Now that you’re there, keep your eyes open for pelicans. I was gobsmacked when I saw them in Ontario, near the Manitoba border. But, that’s just one example of fauna you can see. Add to that coyotes, wolves, deer, moose, black bear, and a myriad of birds like the blue heron and the common loon. With those crossed off your list, you can start looking for the smaller critters like flying squirrels, weasels, fishers, beavers, woodchuck (which, contrary to popular belief, don’t chuck wood) and chipmunks. Camera in hand, these critters make my solo travels fun and adventurous. (And I haven’t mentioned the frogs, turtles, or creepy crawlers, all of which add natural beauty and opportunities for great photos.) But, do pay attention to the store-your-food-properly rules if you’re camping, lest you have an uninvited visitor at an inopportune time.

When the Map Misleads: Gas Stations, Ghost Towns, and Travel Tips for the Northern Roads

Northern Ontario—where you'd better gas up when you see a station, because even if there is another one shown on your GPS, you may get there to find it’s not quite what you expected. This happened to me. There, in all its glory on the GPS was a gas station I desperately needed. Whew! Made it just in time. Except, it looked like something out of a 1950s movie—without the attendant in dust-covered coveralls (to pump your gas for you—can you imagine such a thing? Right up there with grocery baggers...), the penny candy, or any gasoline. Grass grew from the cracked and broken concrete. Its dilapidated gas pumps were of a different age—their weathered and rusty patina so cliché that it looked more like it was created by a movie set designer. Faded paint, windowless frames, and a logo out of a design history book. The only thing missing was tumbleweed, a blazing sun beating down from high in the sky and a Clint Eastwood movie soundtrack. How the heck did this relic of a station make it onto my GPS? Taking a spare gas container is a good idea if you plan to stray from the major roads.

But don’t get me wrong; stick to the main routes and you can still wander into Tim Hortons for your double-double and find a gas station without looking too hard.

You’d think after all the miles I’ve ridden up there, I’d have had my fill. But Northern Ontario is a big place. There are roads I haven’t ridden, waterfalls I haven’t seen, and a once-in-a-lifetime lodge or two I’d still love to stay at—you know the kind: the ones with the three-storey great rooms with leather sofas, huge wooden beams, log walls and an oversized stone fireplace. A place where a stuffed eight-pointer wouldn’t be out of place and where you feel like you have to sip cognac because a Molson Canadian or Bud just wouldn’t cut it. Maybe one day.

Campfire Dreams: Motorcycle Camping in Northern Ontario

The truth is, camping’s more my speed—partly because I’m on a retiree’s budget and partly because I like being close to nature. I’ll have to admit, though, these days it seems a little too close. Why, since we supposedly shrink a bit as we get older, does the ground feel like it’s getting so much further away? I don’t remember it being so hard to get in and out of my tent. Minor grumble aside, I love camping. One of my most cherished memories is camping along the shores of Lake Superior at Agawa Bay. The waves, rhythmically crashing against the shore, lull me to sleep, then gently ease me into the day the following morn. Sure, sometimes it’s chilly, and sometimes it rains, but go prepared and you’ll have a blast.

Winding Roads and Wild Views: Best Motorcycle Routes in Northern Ontario

There are some roads I’d like to re-ride, like Highway 129 north to Aubrey Falls. The hike up to the falls is less than a kilometre. One tip, don't stop your hike at the bridge. Keep going until you reach the top. You’ll find picnic tables—enjoy a picnic and take in the best view.

The ride north from the falls to Chapleau is less interesting, though there’s a wildlife preserve up there that might make it worthwhile. The return trip south of the falls rides completely different, so if your goal is sporty riding, up to the falls and back is your best bet.

Here is what I said about it a couple of years ago:

 “Cresting the hill, my shocks extend as my bike seems to defy gravity. It rose up, my stomach followed. There was no indication as to which way the road turned. I stayed alert: to turn hard left, to turn hard right, to avoid a logging truck, or to go straight. The road never went straight. The road’s course followed the winding of the river; its undulations echoed the hilly terrain. My view was bound by rocky escarpments on the left, the river on the right, and the hill in front; there was always a hill. Disney rides don’t get better than this. But, I’m challenged trying to get the most from the ride while taking in the scenery. Another blind corner, I move over to get the best view. The road opens up. I look through the turn, choose my line, gear down, lean the bike, and roll on the throttle. I’m looking down the river, and it’s a picture that should be taken. I can’t find a place to stop. There are no motorcycle-friendly shoulders. I ride on. This repeats time and time again. Hill, corner, great view. Lost photo opportunity. Nevertheless, bliss.”

If 129 is the sporting ride, then riding the north shore of Superior is the scenic one. I could ride both of them time and time again. I also like the ride down to Silver Islet (Highway 587) and to the swing bridge (via Highway 6) to Little Current to get on to Manitoulin Island.

I’d like to re-visit Thunder Bay, the Soo, Ouimet Canyon, Manitoulin Island, Silver Islet, and Sleeping Giant Provincial Park. My knees were bothering me the last time I was there, so I missed some great hiking. Not next time, though.

But it’s not just about the roads, places, and scenery.

Strangers, Stories, and Scotch: Why the People of Northern Ontario Stand Out

What brings me back is the je ne sais quoi attitude and friendly hospitality that sets Northern Ontario apart. What’s more, Northern Ontario brings out the best in people. One night, while camping, a stranger from Oregon saw me with my camera and approached me. “What are you shooting? How do you like your camera? What do you suggest my wife should look at? She’s into photography.”

We talked for half an hour when I told him I’d have to bolt because I was walking to the beer store to pick up a few pints I could enjoy around the fire. Nice chat, and as often happens in my travels, I didn’t expect to see him again.

Later, however, my new Oregonian friend showed up with a care package: a six-pack of beer, a large bag of potato chips, and a dark Belgian chocolate bar. He said that his wife had told him that he couldn’t leave a fellow camper without any beer to sip on, so he set out to find me in the campground to deliver the care package.

On its own, I might’ve chalked it up to a nice couple doing what comes naturally. But when I consider how many times people have gone out of their way to help me, share with me, and include me at their dinner table or around their fire, I’ve come to conclude that Northern Ontario is like a good party host, providing an environment where guests can introduce themselves, share, and enjoy their time together. I enjoyed six fingers of eighteen-year-old scotch to prove it, but you’ll have to see my article Beer, Chips, and Chocolate for the complete story.

Northern Ontario doesn’t care who you are or where you’re from. They are just happy you’re there—and they have a way of showing it. It might be how they’ll walk up to you and start chatting. Or give you a smile. Or when they go the extra mile serving you in a store or restaurant. And when you realize you’ve been there for a few days and never once seen a road rage incident. Dorothy, you’re not in Southern Ontario anymore.

Is it any wonder I keep going back?

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