Canoeing Killarney’s Northern Access

Fewer Crowds and Easier Portaging

A few years back I volunteered to paddle and portage the newly expanded section of Killarney Provincial Park – a section between the Panache Lake area and the northern range of the La Cloche Mountains. I re-discovered some perfect canoe and kayak routes through Panache, Bear and Walter Lakes – all connecting to the neighboring lakes already in the park. I recorded them in my guide book, A Paddler's Guide to Killarney and the French River.

Since then, I’ve traveled back. I love it here. The main reason is simple: not so many people. Most paddlers choose to keep to the areas where white quartzite and crystal clear lakes dominate. The northern range has a subtle charm of its own, however. There’s a large sense of history here, not to mention lots of fish to catch. The lakes amongst the La Cloche mountains are beautiful to look at but they are also devoid of life. Quartzite isn’t a good buffer for acid rain, a pollutant created by the smoke stacks in nearby Sudbury. That’s why the lakes surrounded by white quartz are always turquoise blue and have limited plant life. The pink granite, however, is able to defend the water quality and allows aquatic plants (and fish) to still thrive.

There’s another huge advantage of paddling the northern lakes that not a lot of people realize. It’s much easier to access Great Mountain Lake from the north than to portage in from the south. You’ve got a few short carries compared to the 3-km trail, which also happens to be up hill along it’s entire length.

On my latest canoe trip to Killarney with my nine-year old daughter, wife and new dog, we portaged into Great Mountain Lake from the north and stayed two nights on Gail Lake, a small pond just off of Great Mountain. There’s only one campsite on Gail Lake, which means you have the entire lake to yourself. This has always been one of my favorite campsites in Killarney, and what a bonus to have it for two full days. Time to relax, swim, do laundry, bake blueberry pie.

kill 6v

It’s also possible to head to the southwest of Panache/Bear Lake and camp on Van Winkle, Hanwood or Leech Lakes. The portages are short and Van Winkle Lake has two nice island campsites. From Leech Lake you can also take a day trip into Murray and then to Nellie Lake. Nellie Lake is an absolute gem. The water is crystal clear – looking like a swimming pool. The problem is the portage to it is insanely steep and it makes more sense to complete it as a day trip, carrying just the canoe and a day pack.

nellie-lake-1933
Group of Seven painter A.Y. Jackson's
Nellie Lake

The scenery, of course, is breathtaking, with ridge tops near the west side of the portage’s take-out providing views of where Group of Seven painter A.Y. Jackson painted Nellie Lake. Group of Seven members Lismer and Carmichael introduced this area to Jackson, who later fought for the park’s development.

Two main access areas can be used to reach the north end of the park. Lake Panache put in is reached by taking Regional Road 55, off Highway 17 (west of Sudbury), to Panache Lake Road (Country Road 10). Turn right and travel 14 km to the access point at Penage Bay Marina. Walker Lake is also a good choice. Use Mountain Cove Lodge to store your vehicle. Turn off Highway 6 (through the town of Espanola) and drive 9.5 kilometers east on Queenway Ave. - which later turns into Panache Lake Road. There a sign indicating to turn right to go to Mountain Cove Lodge.

If you want to see more of our family canoe trip around Killarney, click here!

`
About Kevin Callan

Kevin Callan is the author of fifteen books, including the bestselling The Happy Camper, and a popular series of paddling guides. He has been a key speaker at all the major outdoor events for over 25 years. Callan is also a frequent guest on radio and television and a regular contributor to Explore and CanoeRoots Magazine. He is a winner of several National Magazine Awards and film awards and was listed as one of the top 100 modern-day explorers by the Canadian Geographical Society. He was also made Patron Paddler for Paddle Canada.

Recommended Articles

Northern Lights in Northeastern Ontario

Where to see Northern Lights In Canada: Northeas5 Great Spots in The Seven to Find the Aurora Borealis tern Ontario

The Northern Lights Trip Planner

3 trip ideas for an illuminating experience in Ontario

Small-Town Charm, Big-Time Acts

Stars and Thunder welcomes major music performers to Timmins

Join the Ice Fishing Village on Lake Nipissing

A complete guide to huts & bungalows you can rent around North Bay and Callander Bay.

Increase Your Odds

Visitors to the region often wonder, how do I see the Northern Lights?

Complete Guide to Moosonee & Moose Factory Island

12 essential experiences for visitors.

Spectres of the Past: A Ghost Town Field Trip

Follow this trail of abandoned communities on a road trip through the history of Northeastern Ontario

Northeastern Ontario Snowmobile Rentals, Repairs & Dealers

Whether you're looking to buy, rent, or repair your current ride, here are all the best places to help get you on the trails this season. 

Northeastern Ontario's Top 5 Festivals & Events

These BIG festivals are sure to be a summer highlight!

Small-town gems in Northeastern Ontario

Award-winning distilleries, quirky theatres, boating adventures, and historic museums, Northeastern Ontario is yours to explore.

Fly-In Fishing – No Longer Just For Your Bucket List

Our operators will whisk you up, up & away to pristine, remote lakes & the fishing trip of a lifetime!

The most beautiful place on earth?

30 photos make the case for Northeastern Ontario

Best Things to Do in Kirkland Lake: The Town that Gold Built

Check out a self-guided gold mine tour, a northern chateau museum, and get some beach time!

Non-Resident Guide to Ontario's Whitetail

Know before you go.

observe the galaxy like never before

Take in the inky night sky, just outside of the city!

Ice Fishing, Eh?

For those who have ever wondered what ice fishing is all about.

Where Will The Great Spirit Circle Trail Lead You? To Manitoulin Island

Brighten the Night

The Ontario Northland Christmas train rolls in December 1 - 17, 2018!

Ever skied a volcano?

You can at Mount Jamieson! Discover 11 unique places to ski, snowshoe, or snowboard in Northeastern Ontario

The Moto Photo Memoirs

How to Deal with the Mid-Winter Blues