Sleepless in Cedar Meadows: A Wolf-Watching Experience in Timmins

I stepped into the Wolf Cabin’s glass bedroom, and my eyes locked onto Luna’s prone form; her white coat shone in the sunlight. She had been napping through the midday heat, but taking notice of my sudden reappearance, Luna trotted away and laid down to observe me from a distance.

What a way to start a wolf-watching experience! However, before we continue, I need to rewind a bit before I get too far ahead in my story:

I travel to Northeastern Ontario yearly and had no plans in mind for this summer’s trip to The Seven.

So when Cedar Meadows Resort and Spa invited me to experience Sleeping with the Wolves, I couldn’t refuse, and I was booked in for a mid-June visit.

I took a few days to explore Timmins’ trails, mining history and food scene, building up the anticipation. When I arrived at Cedar Meadows midweek, I was more than ready to relax and have a sleepless night with the wolves. 

I couldn’t have been more excited.

After checking in and being given a tour of the spa facilities, I met Richard Lafleur, owner of family-run Cedar Meadows Resort and Spa. I followed his truck to Wolf Cabin 309, and after giving me a quick tour of the amenities, Richard left me to my wolf experience.

Inside the cabin, I couldn’t help but notice how bright and airy it felt with the high ceilings and exposed local lumber beams. A captivating painting of wolf eyes by artist (and chef) Marie-Claire LaFleur-Gagnon hung over the pullout couch, and my favourite MCLG piece, the wolf with red riding hood, adorning another wall.

Hidden behind a sliding door was a simple yet luxurious bathroom with a rain shower that called my name and promised to massage away any lingering tightness in my muscles.

The dining table was set with dishes, reminding me of my hunger—and the local food charcuterie board I would assemble with too much food for one person. A little kitchenette with a coffee maker, mini fridge, microwave, and sink would simplify food prep and cleanup!

The Wolf Cabin's Glass Bedroom

The Wolf Cabin’s spectacular glass bedroom was steps past the kitchenette and closet. Two swivel chairs and soft pillows were by the windows. It was the perfect spot to spin about to watch the wolves in any direction without craning my neck.

Later, when it became too dark for photography with my camera, I could relax on the remote-controlled, adjustable bed, tilting it to my preferred wolf-watching angles and comfort.

There was no need to pile up pillows at my back to enjoy this experience.

I spent an hour watching the other wolves conserve their energy while the sun still hung high in the sky, blasting heat. It was my first time experiencing Timmins' long summer days, and it was the same for the pack—they had come to Cedar Meadows from a southern Ontario zoo where they spent the winter. 

They have ten areas to roam, with open grassy areas, forests, and a one-acre pond, which non-Wolf Cabin guests can view when passing the road-facing fence line.

Most of the wolves in view were napping, so I left my watch for a luxury shower before assembling a charcuterie board dinner from my food purchases earlier in the day.

Once refreshed, I readied my food platters and reached for the cold brews I had picked up from Full Beard Brewing but couldn’t find them. I triple-checked my vehicle, the cooler, and the fridge before calling the brewery to verify I had left them behind.

I sheepishly asked, "is anyone headed this way"? They had kindly packed one extra can for me to enjoy on this sweltering day. I teared up. Thank you so much for bringing them to me!

I planned to photograph the food board with wolves in the background, but the canids weren’t cooperating. I wrapped up my dinner and dessert photoshoot at the dining table, then settled in to eat, enjoy my stay, and watch the wolves.

Now, onto the meat and bones of the story: my observations from Cabin 309.

Wolf Watching from Cabin 309

The pack hierarchy was observable. Starting with Cabin 310—they have the closest view of where the wolves come to feed (this location may change) and where the wolf cubs come out to play. The dominant wolves spent most of their time in the open nearest my cabin, 309, and next door at 310.

I monitored the wolves in front of the cabins from my glass-walled bedroom.

Luna’s chosen area to sleep in during the day was in my backyard. There was a noticeable depression in the ground where she would curl up and sleep the night.

Cabin 308 also had a good view of the wolves, including those settling in the front of the neighbouring cabins and a direct line of sight down a heavily trafficked entrance into the woods.

I watched a wolf coming out of the forest and trotting past the wolves from 310 to 308 before cutting back into the woods on a continuous patrol. I couldn’t easily tell the grey wolves apart, but the body language of a dominant wolf in the pack was apparent even at a distance, especially when they would pass the dark-furred wolves by 306 and 307.

Cabins 307 and 306 usually had two-year-old dark-coloured wolves, (m) Diesel and (f) Storm, in view. Their behaviours and distance from the feeding area indicated that the pair were among the lowest ranks in the wolf pack.

Should the young dark male, Diesel, be anywhere near a dominant wolf, he would turn with his already-tucked tail and give the more dominant male a lot of space or hang his head, signalling he’s not a threat.

At a few points during my stay, I counted eight wolves, with the highest count happening around feeding time. Unlike the submissive wolves, Alphas Bear and Raven don’t sneak away with a mouthful of food, so even though they ate first, I didn’t witness it.

I watched the wolves biding their time as each pack member waited for their turn—and permission from the Alpha(s)—to move forward and grab some food.

Finally, it was Luna’s turn to grab a morsel.

First, she took a small piece and then returned for more.

Then Diesel, tail tucked, crept forward, looking for an opportunity to grab a mouthful from Luna. Then, one of the grey males came, taking the meat from Luna while Diesel kept his distance.

After their meals, the wolves settled down for post-dinner naps, but once the sun dipped below the tree line, the temperature started to drop, the air cooled off, and the pack started to get active.

In the gathering darkness, the wolves displayed behaviours mirrored in our canine companions at home: snapping at biting bugs, rolling in the dirt, greeting each other, and licking mouths to show submission.

Other pack members held their tails high and rigid while doing stiff-legged walks and then sprang into a chase around the open areas.

The cabin’s guests started turning their spotlights on while the wolves continued to play, running in and out of the deepening shadows until they looked like grey blurs.

Eventually, the wolves wandered off to their spots, whether in the forest or the front of the cabins, like Luna, who’d settled in ‘my backyard’ for the night. I searched the treeline for activity, staring into the darkness and seeing nothing staring back.

The other cabin’s spotlights turned off one by one until mine was the only light on.

The wolves had gone quiet. Perhaps it was time to call it a night.

I must have drifted off because I came awake with a start—the pack was howling at 3 a.m., and Luna was joining the chorus right next to my window.

The guests to my right and left turned on their outdoor lights simultaneously, and the wolves fell silent. When the spotlights eventually went out and ten minutes later, the wolves sang for just a few more minutes.

I hadn’t moved the entire time, but now I slowly reached out to turn on my camera, hoping the microphone would pick up their howls.

I drifted off after the wolves quieted. Let me assure you, morning came too soon.

The wolves had woken up early (well before me, I’m sure) to take advantage of the cool temperatures before the day's heat started beating down on them. Not one wolf stayed in sight for more than a few minutes.

I made coffee and ate leftover pastries, cheese, and meat for breakfast, packing up as I puttered around and peeked out the windows for my last glimpses of the wolves.

For folks in the north who spend time in the wilderness, seeing wolves can be a common occurrence as these canids are curious creatures. However, for others like me, the closest wolves are either in Algonquin Park or Haliburton Wolf Preserve—neither of which can guarantee a sighting.

During my one-night stay, I saw eight wolves and two wolf cubs. I’d guess that seeing wolves at Cedar Meadows is practically a given on this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

My time at the resort wasn’t over; I would stay another night (or two) to relax and rejuvenate at the Nordic Spas and eat onsite at the Voyageur Restaurant. I also had the Wildlife Tour to look forward to, where I saw the resident elk, bison, fallow deer, and bald eagles that hunt in the park.

I assure you, I will always remember this destination and intend to return to it as soon as possible.

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